Mattress Tips

So you’ve got the perfect little log cabin, or chalet by the lake, or just want a country touch to your home. You want a log bunk bed, or two, but don’t know where to start. And they don’t carry them in your down town furniture store.

Not to worry, there are plenty of options available on the Internet. There are loft log bunk beds, twin over twin log bunk beds, full over full or even twin over queen. I haven’t seen a twin over king yet, but really the Amish can make any size you want. A lot of college students who looking to build an inexpensive loft bed might find an Amish loft bunk bed to be just the ticket, and some of them come with futons under them, too.

There are federal regulations regarding bunk beds, so you’ll want to make sure that whatever bed you choose meets the regulations. Were talking safety here, and things do happen. But you certainly wouldn’t want a bed that doesn’t meet the regulations, so make sure that the one you buy, does. Most accidents with bunk beds happen to children under the age of three. Many of these accidents can be avoided by having safety rails on both sides of the top bed. If one side of the bed is against the wall, that can be sufficient–but it must be against the wall. There are also regulations regarding headboards. There is a link to a page with the regulations at the bottom of this article for those who wish to read further.

Bunk beds built to those regulations are generally built to hold an adult weighing up to 250 pounds. If you are pushing the limits, try cedar instead of pine. In the beds we sell, the cedar logs are 5 to 6 inches in diameter, while the pine is about 3 inches in diameter. They are both built to federal specifications, and the pine bunk beds are very solid and strong, but if there is a question in your mind, go for the bigger logs. And of course, you can always put the big fella on the bottom, too.

Some log bunk beds come with a metal frame to hold the mattress, but some of the Amish build them with a wood frame to hold both the box spring and the mattress. You don’t have to put a box spring in those beds, but you certainly can.

The other alternative to hold the mattress up is called a Bunkie board. A Bunkie board is basically inch plywood cut to the size of the box spring. It sits inside either the metal bed frame, or the wood bed frame, and supports the mattress. If you have a box spring you dont need a Bunkie board, but if there is not a box spring, the Bunkie board is what supports the middle of the mattress. We sell Bunkie boards if people want them, but a lot of people just cut their own. Its up to the buyer.

Another option to consider is the type of ladder you want with your log bunk bed. Some of the Amish beds have the ladders built right into the end of the bed, so you don’t have a ladder leaning out from the bed. Others have a moveable ladder that can hook on the end or the side. In many cases, the amount of space available determines the type of bunk bed you buy. If you have a small room, the larger cedar logs may seem too massive. If you don’t have room for a slanted ladder, however, you may opt for the cedar bunk bed anyway that has the ladder built in. If you have a larger room or larger people, you may opt for the larger cedar logs.

If you get a pine bunk bed with metal frame, there is a way to give the metal frame that log look when the covers are thrown back. These are decorative half logs or rails, not to be confused with the safety rails that go around the top of the bunk bed. The top safety rails are always included with the log bunk bed, but the decorative half rails are optional and just for looks.

Last but not least, be sure to measure before you buy. Last year we sold a couple of log bunk beds to somebody in Montana. They absolutely loved the beds, but had bought two for the room and soon found out that only one could comfortably fit. Since we are in Michigan and they in Montana, it would have cost quite a bit to ship it back. They ended up selling the extra bed on ebay, but the problem could have been avoided with a bit of careful measuring up front.

About The Author

Copyright 2006 Cari Haus

This article was written by Cari Haus, President of Log Cabin Rustics, http://www.logcabinrustics.com, which retails log bunk beds on the Internet. Permission is granted to reprint this article in it’s entirety, provided a link to Log Cabin Rustics is included at the end of the article.Also, here is a helpful information about log bunk beds at http://ecfr.gpoaccess.com/. Go to that site and search for bunk bed regulations.

Written By: Cari Haus

Sleeping bag liners for camping? My friend Dion made fun of my “poor excuse for a sleeping bag,” but it kept me warm as the temperature dropped to the low forties, and it weighed only five ounces. We were camping on the banks of the Manistee River in Michigan.

So, how did it a sleeping bag liner keep me warm? The real secret was the fifteen minutes we spent gathering dead, dry bracken ferns to build a two-foot thick mattress. We set the tent on that. Then, in my liner with all my clothes on, I was fine. Actually, I’ve rarely slept as well camping as I did that night.

Using Sleeping Bag Liners Instead Of Bags

You can buy light sleeping bag liners from Campmor and other suppliers, or do like I did. I sewed a simple one of bargain-bin nylon material ($1/yard) obtained at Walmart. Buy the lightest nylon or polyester material you can find. Depending on what you use and how big you make it, it should weigh between four and nine ounces.

I found I could stay warm with a light sleeping bag liner in autumn, at a few degrees above freezing, so this strategy should work well for summer nights in the sixties. Be careful, of course. It could be dangerous, or at least uncomfortable enough to ruin your trip. Test this strategy near home, and know yourself and your enviroment.

You may want to learn a few tricks for staying warm if you try this strategy. When it isn’t too humid you can breath in your bag, for example. Many backpackers will tell you not to do this, because you’ll be damp in the morning, but in a dry enviroment you’ll dry quickly once you hit the trail. Spread the liner out to dry during a break.

Just as I did the first time, you can also use a mattress of dried plants. Use dead leaves, palm fronds, grass, cattail leaves, some softer tree barks, etc. A mattress of this sort insulates you from the ground, which normally takes away much of your body heat. Scatter the leaves in the morning so they won’t smother the plants underneath.

Try to go to bed warm. If you’re warm when you get into your sleeping bag, you’re more likely to stay warm through the night. If you start out shivering, it’s difficult to warm up, especially in a thin bag.

These are options, but not recommendations. I’ve gone out with nothing more than a bivy sack in my jacket pocket, but I’m not recommending that either. This is just to present all the possible options for the ultralight backpacker. One of those options is sleeping bag liners.

More tricks for staying warm: Hot tea before going to sleep… Exercise a bit… Cover yourself with extra clothes… Elevate your feet slightly… Go to sleep earlier or later. Experiment to see what works best for you.

About the author:

Steve Gillman is a long-time advocate of lightweight backpacking. His tips, photos, stories and gear recommendations can be found at http://www.TheUltraligh tBackpackingSite.com

Written By: Steve Gillman

Okay, it wasn’t quite a sleeping bag. However, it was only five ounces, and it kept me warm as the temperature dropped to the low forties on the bank of the Manistee River in Michigan. The secret was the fifteen minutes we spent gathering dead, dry bracken ferns to build a two-foot thick mattress. We set the tent on that. Then, with all my clothes on, I was fine.

In fact, I’ve rarely slept as well camping as I did that night. As I said, it wasn’t a sleeping bag, but actually a sleeping bag liner. I bought it from Campmor, but I’ve since sewn a simple one of bargain-bin nylon material ($1/yard) obtained at Walmart. If it’s possible to stay warm with a light sleeping bag liner in autumn, at a few degrees above freezing, this strategy should work well for summer nights in the sixties.

How To Use A Liner As A Sleeping Bag

Be careful, of course, backpacking with just a liner for a sleeping bag. It could be dangerous, or at least uncomfortable enough to ruin your trip. Experiment near home, and know yourself and your enviroment.

Learn a few tricks. If it isn’t too humid you can breath in your bag, and you will be much warmer. Most backpackers will tell you not to do this, because you’ll be damp in the morning, but in a dry enviroment you’ll be fine once you hit the trail. Just dry the liner out during a break.

Another trick is to use a mattress of dried plants. Try dead leaves, palm fronds, grass, cattail leaves, some tree barks, etc. A mattress of this sort insulates you from the ground, which normally takes away much of your body heat. Scatter the leaves in the morning so they won’t smother the plants underneath.

Some other tricks to try: Hot tea before going to sleep… Exercise a bit… Cover yourself with extra clothes… Elevate your feet slightly… Go to sleep earlier or later. Experiment to see what works best for you.

Also, go to bed warm. If you’re warm when you get into your sleeping bag, you’re more likely to stay warm through the night. It’s difficult to warm up, especially in a thin bag, if you start out shivering.

I’m not recommending backpacking with only a sleeping bag liner, but it is an option. I’ve gone out with nothing more than a bivy sack in my jacket pocket, but I’m not recommending that either. This is just to present all the possible options for the ultralight backpacker.

About the Author

Steve Gillman is a long-time advocate of lightweight backpacking. His tips, photos and stories can be found at The Ultralight Backpacking Site: http://www.The-Ultralight-Site.com

Written By: Steve Gillman

Why ultralight sleeping bags? Because ultralight backpacking is only made possible by cutting the weight of the “big three;” the backpack, shelter and sleeping bag. The days of five-pound summer bags are gone – at least for those of us who prefer to go light. One Pound Ultralight Sleeping Bags

There are several one-pound ultralight sleeping bags on the market now. My own is 17 ounces. It actually weighs 19 ounces with the stuff sack, but stuff sacks aren’t always necessary. It can be stuffed directly into my pack or put in a half-ounce bread bag. It’s a down sleeping bag, and has kept me warm down to below freezing – warmer, in fact, than my four-pound bag used to keep me.

It appears fragile, and I’ve babied it over the years, but it may be tougher than I thought. I’ve used it from sea-level to 16,000 feet, in all types of weather, usually camping under a tarp, yet it still has its loft, and it appears almost new. The zipper goes only half-way down, to save weight, and it’s a mummy bag, but I’m 6’3″, 165 pounds, and I’ve always been comfortable in it.

Sleeping bags weighing around a pound are summer bags, rated down to 40 to 50 degrees fahrenheit. A quick check of the newest bags out there, though, shows that even one or two of the 0 degree bags are under three pounds now. These are down filled bags, of course, as down is still the lightest insulation for its weight.

Another big advantage of any down sleeping bag is it’s compressibility. Nothing packs smaller than down. However, a good synthetic bag is probably better than down if you are regularly getting it wet.

Several sythetic-fill sleeping bags now come close to down in their warmth-to-weight ratio. At least one summer bag, using Polarguard fill, weighs an even 16 ounces. That’s amazingly light for a synthetic bag.

Using Ultralight Sleeping Bags

Ultralight sleeping bags generally aren’t tough. The lighter the bag, the more fragile, but treat them gently, and they work fine. I’ve used mine for many years, in snow and rain, from Ecuador to California to Michigan, and it shows little wear. Baby these things, and they can last a long time.

About the Author

Steve Gillman is a long-time backpacker, and advocate of lightweight backpacking. His advice, stories and sleeping bag recommendations can be found at http://www.TheUltralightBackpackingSite.com

Written By: Steve Gillman